Restoring a sticking wooden door.

Wood moves with humidity, screws loosen, houses settle, and paint accumulates. All can make a door bind. The useful question is whether the door has changed, the frame has changed, or the hardware is no longer holding the two in alignment.

Find the contact point

Open and close the door slowly while watching the gap around its top and latch edge. A uniform gap is ideal. A narrowing gap points toward the trouble. Rub chalk on a suspected edge, close the door gently, then reopen it; transferred chalk marks the contact. A sheet of paper slid around the closed door can also reveal tight points.

Look for polished paint, scuffs, crushed fibers, or a latch that sits above or below its strike plate. If the door suddenly changed or the frame is visibly distorted, inspect for moisture damage or structural movement before altering the door.

Start with the hinges

Support the door and test every hinge screw with the correct screwdriver—not a drill at full torque. A loose top hinge commonly lets the latch side drop, causing contact at the upper latch corner and misaligning the latch.

1. Tighten loose screws by hand. If they bite firmly, test the door again.
2. If a screw spins, remove it. A slightly longer screw of the same gauge may reach sound framing, provided no wiring or plumbing is at risk.
3. For a worn hole in the door itself, glue hardwood toothpicks or a close-fitting wood sliver into the hole. Once dry, trim flush, drill a small pilot hole, and reinstall the screw.
4. Confirm hinge leaves sit flat in their mortises. Paint buildup or a proud screw head can push a leaf out of alignment.

Read common gap patterns

• Door rubs at the upper latch corner: tighten or repair the top hinge first.
• Door rubs along the entire latch edge: inspect hinges for paint buildup, loose pins, or bent leaves; then assess seasonal swelling.
• Door drags on the floor: check hinge sag and whether flooring has been added. Confirm clearance before removing material.
• Latch misses the strike but edges are clear: tighten hardware, then adjust the strike plate slightly rather than reshaping the whole door.
• One small swollen patch: look for failed paint, water entry, or a nearby bathroom moisture source.

When wood removal is justified

If hinges are sound, the frame is stable, and the door remains swollen after the season has had time to settle, mark only the proven contact area. Remove the door if needed and work from the edge toward the center to avoid breaking out a corner. Take fine passes with a sharp hand plane, or use a sanding block for a very slight correction. Test often.

Maintain a small, even clearance. Removing too much in humid weather leaves an excessive gap when dry conditions return. On an exterior door, preserve the geometry of weather seals and thresholds.

Seal the repaired edge

Bare end grain absorbs moisture rapidly. Smooth dust away and prime and paint, varnish, or otherwise seal every freshly exposed area, including the top and bottom edges when accessible. Match the existing coating system. Let coatings cure before closing the door for long periods.

Adjust the latch last

Once the door swings freely, check the latch. Tighten the strike plate. Small vertical errors may be corrected by carefully filing the strike opening; larger errors call for moving the plate, filling old screw holes, and drilling fresh pilots. The latch should enter without lifting, pushing, or slamming the door.